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Across
from the island of Procida, set between the promontory of the castle
of Baia, Cape Poggio and Lake Miseno (or the Dead Sea), Bacoli and
its outlying towns (Baia, Fusaro, Torregaveta and Miseno) are a sure
landing place for anyone who loves the sea, fishing and history. Modern-day
Bacoli is the outcome of the urban development that took place in
the second half of the twentieth century, but if you decide to visit
it you'll understand why villas replete with marble and mosaics were
built here during the Roman era, between the ancient towns of Baia
and Bauli. What remains today of these ancient settlements are the
so-called Tomb of Agrippina, on the beach, and Cento Caramelle (Centum
Cellae), a building on the highlands by the same name and probably
the site of the villa of the orator Hortensis, who was also a dedicated
fish-breeder. But there would be thousands upon thousands more traces
of Roman history if the villas, porticos and temples that we can merely
imagine today could only rise from the clear waters of the bay. The
area faced decline and abandonment until a colony of Neapolitan Jews
settled in the town during the seventeenth century, basing their economy
on fish, wine, and the tuff and pozzuolan quarries. Mussel-breeding
also boasts of a very old history. Starting in the mid-seventeenth
century, Lake Fusaro was exploited to breed mussels and oysters and
at the end of the century, the Bourbon Ferdinand IV commissioned Carlo
Vanvitelli to build a hunting and fishing lodge on a little island.
Known as the Casina Reale, it rises from the waters of the lake like
a fairytale palace. This ancient tradition has left its mark on the
local gourmet traditions and in Bacoli it is a must for visitors to
taste the seafood soup Bacoli-style, made with striped venuses, warty
venuses, cockles, wedge shells and razor clams.
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