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Less
touristy than Ischia, not quite so snobby as Capri, but equally rich
in jagged coastlines and astounding beaches, Procida - called "Prochyta"
(lavished by the sea) by the ancients - is the ideal landing place
for those seeking a location where fishing and seafaring are still
central to the lifestyle of the inhabitants. You will soon realize
it for yourselves when you see the fishermen and their families busy
repairing nets and fishpots out on the pier of the tiny port. Besides,
Procida's navy has a long and glorious past. In the early 19th century,
its fleet numbered over one hundred ships that ploughed the waters
of the Atlantic and the Pacific. Later in the century, in 1885, this
little island ranked seventh for tonnage of the kingdom's fleets and
was fourth for the number of ships. The folk of Procida even invented
their very own boats in the early 20th century, known as the paranza,
an otter trawl that is still very popular amongst fishermen. The architecture
and town-planning are also a demonstration of the links that exist
between the sea and the inhabitants. The houses huddle together, each
a different color, so that each sailor could discern his home from
out at sea. Even the older part - known as "Terra Murata", the walled
and highest part of the island - has a history that speaks of the
sea. This is where the Procidans took refuge from pirate incursions
and in the 1600s built the magical refuge of San Michele, that conceals
a labyrinth of tunnels and catacombs. For the islanders, the most
important date is Good Friday. At dawn each year, trumpets and drums
call the faithful to the Mystery Procession, allegorical floats move
through the streets - until noon - together with statues of Christ
Crucified and Our Lady of Sorrows. Those who visit Procida in late
July can participate in the Sea Festival, with fireworks and the election
of the "Graziella", the girl who most resembles the heroine of Alfonse
de Lamartine's novel.
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