Salerno

Set on the wooded foothills of the Lattari and Picentini mountains, Salerno looks out over the gulf to which it has given its name, bordering to the north with the Amalfi Coast and to the south with the Sele plain. Sheltered by cool woods therefore, and flanked by Amalfi and the temples of Paestum. There is a clear cut definition between the city's older part - the result of modifications over the centuries - and a part born of more recent history. The old center - enclosed and compact to be easily defended from marauding pirates - lies in the shadow of the Longobard - Norman Arechi castle, whilst the seafront - an early twentieth century construction - unfolds to reveal one of Italy's most magical panoramas. So Salerno is indeed very close to the Amalfi Coast - Vietri is only three kilometers away - and your boat will parade you past rocky slopes where the Mediterranean scrub is broken only by the tiny towns that perch over the deep blue sea by some sort of miracle. For the people of Salerno the most important date is the feast day of St Matthew, which has Longobard origins and is held in September. The celebrations last three days and culminate with a procession during which the statues are carried shoulder high - and at a brisk pace - through the streets of the city. Another enchanting event is the feast day of St Joseph, when bonfires are lit - almost reminiscent of ancient pagan rites in celebration of spring. The cuisine of Salerno features numerous specialties, including tiella, with sardines (other pieces of fish can also be used), potatoes, tomatoes from Puglia, breadcrumbs, eggs and sheep's milk cheese; anchovies ammollicate, made with breadcrumbs, garlic, parsley and plenty of lemon juice, or - to finish things off - a dish known as 'mpepata and made with mussels, lots of black pepper, parsley and lemon.